Love That Languedoc

I just got back from a long two weeks of tastings around Western Europe. We went as far north as Normandy (Cherbourg) and we went all the way down to Logrono in the Rioja region of Spain. We drove past a lot of vineyards on our tour, and I have to make a confession. I love the Languedoc.

I cannot deny the beauty and character of every wine country we drove through. I can't deny that there are talented winemakers everywhere we traveled.

But I have to admit that I love my region, the Languedoc-Roussillon, more than any other place I've visited.

Every beautiful place we visited sort of made me miss the Languedoc a little more.

What makes us different? Obviously, there's a great terroir. But the wonderful thing about terroir is that EVERY wine country has its own unique terroir. Ours isn't necessarily BETTER than the others. It's something else that draws me to the Languedoc.

I think it's the opportunity. The Languedoc-Roussillon is one of the largest wine producing regions in the world. We're responsible for something like one third of France's wine. And a decade ago, we were producing 10% of the GLOBAL wine supply just in this one area. But despite this vast size and importance, we are one of the least recognized areas.

Well I'm going to change that. Check out www.love-that-languedoc.com where I'll be running around the Languedoc-Roussillon with my camera. I'm going to be interviewing everybody I can find. We're going to show the Internet and the New World that the Languedoc is a vibrant place full of opportunity and energy. If you're reading this, I'm very grateful that you've been following my vineyard adventures. But NOW, I'm hoping you'll want to follow my Languedoc adventures as we rediscover every wonderful part of the Languedoc-Roussillon.

Tempete de 2009 - It's Windy

It's been a long and windy day. I am not allowed to go outside because my mom is panicking. The department has banned car travel until further notice. We can see three healthy trees fallen from the winery loft. We assume we're going to be clearing out a lot of trees. Hopefully nothing damages the vines or trellis system. A big one fell in the Syrah.

At least I can still drink.

Sometimes I stay inside all day voluntarily. But when it's forced upon me, I go ga ga. To demonstrate, a recent Garfield Minus Garfield comic:

(this is a comic strip that just reprints popular Garfield comics without the titular character, focusing instead on the grim existential masterpiece that is John)

Pruning Vines in the Winter

It's an exceptionally cold winter in France this year and everybody from Paris to Marseilles is covered in an unexpectedly thick sheet of snow. We are enjoying it in the Languedoc too as the vines can always use a good frost. The plants harden and green vines turn to woody tentacles that latch on to the wire trellis system so hard you think you'll need the jaws of life.

Most of the locals who prune professionally refuse to work with us because our trellis system (four wires) supports the plants too much. They need to be doing a plant every twenty seconds to make a decent wage. That means spur pruning AND ripping off all the growth. As you can see in this video, my dad is just pruning. A future video will feature how I run around behind him tearing down all the vegetation that he has pruned. But in this one we see the solemn slow work of cutting down vines and letting them hang on the wires.

It's pretty tedious but it's sort of beautiful (especially with snow on the ground). Some people will enjoy this movie and it's slow pacing across the frozen tundra and its light sense of nostalgia for sunny Florida where I spent my December in beach-going weather. Others will think I am an artsy fart. Such is life. Enjoy the video.

Punch down the cap - How to pige wine

Pigeage is more than just a funny word with indecipherable vowel distribution. It's a way of life. For weeks, all of our wines are going through an extended fermentation where the grapes and grape juice are turning into delicious red wine. This is a critical period known as maceration when the wine will draw its best qualities from the skin and the seeds in the tank. The undamaged grapes of harvest time impart their best qualities to the juice which will one day soon be fine wine.

But it's not smooth sailing, my friends. The tanks we hold the grapes in contain 80 to 100 hectoliters (converted to nonmetric: a lot) of grapes. And the pristine purple marbles that fall into the vat are crushed and torn asunder by the chemical forces at work when yeasts ferment the juice. What's more, there's a byproduct to all this fermenting: CO2. The Carbon dioxide rises to the top of the vat like bubbles in soda and they will lift the majority of the skin and seeds to the top, forming a thick hard cap.

Two or three times a day depending on where we are in the fermentation (determined by measuring the density and temperature of the wine in the cuve). This is hard. It's a struggle to push the grapes back down into the juice. Especially the first time. Especially the first hole. That first puncture is rough, but we've gotta' do it!

I've been looking for excuses to push back the daily pigeage ritual to give my tired arms a rest. My finely tuned ability to procrastinate led me to make a video about pigeing. And now, in an effort to avoid the afternoon pige, I'm writing a blog post about pigeing.

Now you can learn the ins and outs. See the tools I use. Learn the theory and strategies that I usually ignore. You too can use this blog post as a way to not do the work you should probably be doing right now.

Behold punch downs:

Wine punch down - Pigeage

oh, music by Phunt Your Friends available for free download at songfight.org

French wine in Sweden

Good news for all our Swedish readers. A Swedish wine club that you can join online will be making several of our award-winning O'Vineyards wines available to households around Stockholm (and maybe beyond). In addition, I'm excited because I get to write and read an unprecedented number of umlauts in my day to day affairs.

torstig.se

rudimentary English translation



Hurrah for International cooperation. Hopefully it'll go far better than the encounter between Swedish Chef and Jacques Roach.

Vine Tucking

Okay, so the team (currently consisting of my dad, Joey Quigley, and me) is out in the Cabernet Sauvignon lifting wires.

In a nutshell, we want the most leaves possible on each plant since leaves with direct sunlight get energy for the plant, but we want to avoid crowding or dense packs of leaves because leaves stuck in a pack won't collect energy AND they increase the chance of mildew and rot on the grape clusters come harvest time.

The best way for us to guarantee greeaaat foliage coverage with a lot of vertical surface area (horizontal is good too except that it would bump into the plants beside it and get undesired crowding) is a moveable wire trellis system with high posts. We went through the whole vineyard and ripped all the old posts out of the ground to make place for new posts. The new posts have lots of hooks on them so you can adjust how high the wires are set.

When the plant is just sprouting, we drop the wires. The leaves and vines grow in on top of the wires. Then we go around and lift the wires and hook them to the post. This lifts all the foliage up at once and guides the plant upwards while also providing support to grow extra long without snapping (this is especially important on more fragile varietals like the syrah which has vegetation that can easily snap under its own weight when unsupported).



The other cool part of this video is just talking about a peculiarly pesky weed called Les Americains (the Americans!) which we have to rip out of the ground whenever we see. It kind of looks like grapevine and it tends to sprout near the base of the vines and leech off of their root system. Left unchecked it destroys everything and suffocates the grape plants.

They're called Americans because they were introduced when France took in a lot of California plants after a blight devastated most of their own vines. The American clones apparently introduced this previously unseen weed to the countryside. Enjoy the irony of Americans ripping up Americains.

Questions and comments are appreciated on the blog or at the youtube video itself. Thanks for keeping up with our adventures!

Some vineyard footage

I finally had a bit of time to compile some of the vineyard footage. Please excuse the low quality. I'm recording all of this with my laptop's built-in webcam and the macbook icam is not meant for these sweeping outdoor shots. Add Internet compression to that and some psychotic time-lapse editing and you have video that I hope is just on this side of watchable. Anyway, people have been requesting some outdoorsy footage and some footage of the town around the vineyard. Hopefully these clips will satisfy.

The music is "quelle classe!" by Les Auditeurs (my friends and I just recorded it this week!).



You can see the town hall of Villemoustaussou, the fruit orchard on the vineyard, Muse the Wine Dog, and some pretty blossoms. Excitement abounds on the outskirts of Carcassonne, France.

Still running

I've been back in Tampa a couple days now and I'm starting to miss mom's cooking. But it's good to be in the city that raised me, checking out the old stomping grounds and living in the house I was in before we started this crazy vineyard thing. For those who don't know, I'm from Tampa so this is where the wine's marketing and distribution is headquartered for the time being.

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Home, Sweet-Mother-of-@#*!, Home.

[[VIDEO REMOVED]]

The video isn't working entirely right... I'll have to get my mom to reupload it. Regardless, that's a glimpse of the house my parents built before going into wine. They made the houses like they make wines WAY BIGGER THAN MOST PEOPLE WOULD EVER EXPECT.

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Anyway, I'm in Tampa and I'm ready to start selling wine. A lot of new contacts from the Sarasota Wine Festival. I met David and Deb Hunt from Hunt Cellars, several of the family member at Stanley Lambert including (Jim Lambert, self-proclaimed wannabe winemaker), the lovely family behind Silkwood Wines, and the Michael half of Michael-David Winery (who make Earthquake, Incognito, Pride, 7 Deadly Zins and many many more). They were all fantastic people and I will be keeping in touch with each of them.

I also got to snoop a little behind the scenes, sneaking around the service corridors of the Ritz Carlton, salvaging floral arrangements from the hotel's trash, and pouring more than a thousand samples in three days. I even got invited to an after-party thrown by one of the bigger distributors and it was fun drinking behind (what some refer to as) enemy lines. At the end of so much good wine, everybody can be good friends.

Hit the ground running

I landed (finally) and my luggage didn't. Oh well. I'm in Tampa. I got a few hours of sleep. I'm going to pack the wine and bring it (past deadline) to Sarasota. We'll see if we can salvage the expo experience despite the Airline conspiracy to destroy my itinerary. I've always thought that Charles de Gaul had it out for me (the airport, not the General/President).

Sarasota will be a hoot if I can make it there on time since the wine had to be delivered when I was originally scheduled to land like a day and a half ago.

Pruning methods

I posted a youtube video about the different pruning methods. There's spur pruning and cane pruning. These are known here as Cordon Royat and Guyot, respectively. At O'Vineyards, we're in the process of converting from Guyot to Cordon Royat and this video explains why we think this will be good for the wine.



PS - I'm confirming this blog's entry into Technorati. Technorati Profile It's a site that catalogs blogs and helps spread the word.

Soutirage Update

We spent most of the day doing soutirages on some of the Syrah for the 2007 Reserve. It had a lot of lies (that's pronounced leez and has nothing to do with obfuscating the truth) and it was exceptionally important to make sure that this grape deposit should be separated from the wine at this time.

We also took advantage of this move to put some of the barrels in the center of the room on that new oxoline shelving I was bragging about a couple days ago. It took a long time, but it should be easier on the remaining barrels we have to go through.

More to come!

France in April

I just celebrated my 23rd birthday at the beginning of the month and after an incredibly busy pair of weeks in Florida, I flew back to the vineyard. I am currently typing from my office above the winery and I am excited to announce that I finally got around to making a short vineyard video. Hopefully, I'll keep these coming as a web series on O'Vineyards that can shed some light on some of the cool things we get to do, the way we tend to grapes and wine, our love for this work and this area, all the sweet toys I get to play with, etc.

This installment is on a topic I'm very excited about. I've been gone since crush at the end of 2007. In my absence, my parents installed a brand new oxoline system to shelve our barrels. This actually sounds a lot like an ad for them, but I'm not getting paid. (We should look into the sponsorship opportunities, but) This is just a friendly look into one of the cool new gadgets I get to use.



For people who can't see the video cause they're at work or on dialup or somesuch:
My barrels used to be stacked on top of each other which is the way it's been done for a long time. Once they're full, they're exceptionally heavy and it's a little difficult reaching the bunghole (that's the hole in the barrel, not the naughty part of your body). The shelving system uses space age innovations like wheels and tubes to shelve each barrel independently. This makes the hole accessible, makes it possible to turn the barrel around while full with minimal effort, and turns the difficult process of emptying the last bits of the barrel as easy as turning it upside down. I'm sort of surprised it took centuries of winemaking before an affordable shelf with wheels was invented, but at least we have it now.